中国男同志最新vivdeo

It's a great time to be a hand tool woodworker. There are a ton of great resources out there along with an increasing amount of options for tools. This is the guide I wish existed a couple years ago when I first started this hobby.

中国男同志最新vivdeo

Assembing your first set of tools is the biggest challenge. I've listed here 28 items you need to build the more common pieces of furniture. For more recommendations and expert opinions look at the extended list below.

中国男同志最新vivdeo

Everyone has opinions to which tools are essential. Eventually you will too. To help the beginner get started I've compiled this list from hand tool experts and resources online. I've thrown in my 2 cents too for good measure. I've tried to make this chart as convenient as possible. Help support this site by using these links. Some links go straight to the source to help out the boutique tool makers. I'd appreciate any feedback.

Filter:

Bench Planes

In a hand tool workshop, bench planes are the primary method to take rough-milled lumber and make them flat, square, and smooth. They are typically numbered based on the Stanley system. For a beginner, a vintage Stanley No. 5 Jack is a great option since they are cheap, a great experience to learn how planes work, and flexible enough to be useful for many of the taks you need to do. [ 1 2 Bevel up vs. Bevel down 4 5 ]

yes *

or use jack plane with cambered blade

yes

Scrub Plane

Scrub planes are for aggressively thinning boards down. They are used with a highly cambered blades to take out big chunks of wood. They are often used accross the grain of boards. Many people recommend using a No. 5 Jack Planes for this task [Schwarz] when equiped with a cambered blade. You could also use a No. 4. Newer versions of this plane exists but since this is a roughing tool, you typically don't need the high tolerance of a precision made plane.

$$

Buy vintage Stanley No. 5 or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
Extra blades
yes *

w/ 2nd blade for scrubbing

yes *

w/ 2nd blade for scrubbing

yes *

#5

yes *

14″ long

yes
yes *

#5

Jack Plane

Many people recommend it as the first plane you buy [Schwarz] because it is versatile. Often used similarly as a scrub plane when blade is cambered. If you do use it as your only bench plane, it's best to have 2 blades, one cambered and one not.

Low-angled jack planes are often recommended as your jack plane bacause you can swap out blades with different angles and they work well as a shooting board plane.

$$

recommendedBuy vintage Stanley No. 5 or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
Extra blades
yes *

for end grain and shooting board

Low Angle Jack

Low-angled jack planes were less common historically. Today there are new options because people have realized they are very versatile. Blades are bevel up, so by using multiple irons with differently sharpened angles, you are able to use this plane for end-grain (low-angle), regular planing (medium angle), difficult grain (high angle), scraping (negative angle), and toothing with a toothing blade. Since the blade is at a low angle, this is a great plane to also use on a shooting board. If you choose it for a shooting board, it pays to buy a premium plane so that the edges are swuare to the base. [ 1 2 ]

$

Unusual to make and used planes are rare.

yes *

18″ long

Fore Plane

A plane between the number 5 and 7, it is often recommended as a good choice as a jointer for smaller work.

$

$$

Buy vintage Stanley No. 6 or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

#8

yes
yes *

#6 or #7

yes *

#7

Jointer Plane

Jointer planes are typically the second plane used when flattening baords. It's long length makes it easy to get boards flat. If you can afford it, a premium plane here is money well spent because it's more difficult to true up a large plane.

Many people recommend using a slightly cambered blade on a jointer. This makes the task of squaring up edges of boards simpler since you can shift the plane to take a bigger shving on one side or another.

$$

recommended Buy vintage Stanley or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

#4

yes *

10″ long

yes
yes *

#4

yes *

Optional

yes *

#3 or #4

yes *

#4

Smoothing Plane

This is the last plane used on boards. It's for the final pass, often after assembly, to smooth out all the final surfaces of a piece of furniture.

$$

recommended Buy vintage Stanley or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
Joinery Planes

For creating furniture in a hand tool shop, these are more important than collecting all the numbers of bench planes. For a beginner I think 2 are essential: A router plane is a tool that can increase your accuracy in refining joints. A plow plane makes the grooves that are essential for frame and panel joinery and drawer bottoms. A modern shop could use a powered router for many of these tasks, but these planes don't require as much set up, jig making, or test cuts.

yes
yes
yes

Router Planes

You could make a strong argument that router planes should be the first joinery plane you should get. They increase the accuracy of many joinet, including tenons and dadoes. [1]

$$

Buy vintage Stanley 71 or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes

Plow Planes

Plow (plough) planes make it easy to add grooves to wood. Use it for channels for drawer bottoms or a panels in a frame and panel door. There are a number of vintage plow planes in wood or metal along with new versions. Shwarz prefers wooden plow planes, but the Veritas plow plane is more reasonably priced and can covert into a tongue and groove plane with an added kit. [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ]

$$

Buy vintage in wood or metal: GW, TBT, HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

Rabbet or Shoulder

Rabbet Plane

Rabbet (rebate) planes come in a wide variety of forms. They have blades that run to the side of the plane and are used to make square notches on the edges of boards. More complicated versions have skewed blades, fences, depth stops, and nickers, in any and all of those combinations, in a number of sizes and configurations. For making typical rabbets, the favorite of most reviewers is the LV/Veritas Skew Rabbet plane, though the basic wooden rabbets work too in the hands of skilled woodworkers. [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ]

$$

Buy vintage Stanley 78 or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

Rabbet or Shoulder

yes *

Medium

Shoulder Plane

Shoulder planes are similar to rabbet planes (and can be considered a subset) but are specifically tuned to work on end grain and have faces that are machined at right angles so you can use it on it's side. You can use a shoulder plane to make rabbets, but typicall a shoulder plane is used to refine existing surfaces. Most reviews prefer the Lee Valley/Veritas plane because it provides better options for gripping. [ 1 2 3 ]

$

See rabbet planes.

yes
yes
yes
yes

Block Plane

Block planes are useful little planes for doing small planing tasks from chamfering edges to cleaning up joinery.

$

Buy vintage Stanley 60-1/2: HK, ST, SL, more
Marking & Measuring

Accurate marking and measuring are critical to quality work. To start, a few are basic but essential: A knife is used over pencils for accuracy. Adjustable squares are essential for their multitude of uses. Marking guages let you copy one measurement consistently to other pieces. Many of the other tools, make great first projects.

yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes

Marking Knife

Marking knives are more accurate than pencils because the marks have no thickness and chisels naturally register into the cut. [ 1 2 ]

yes
yes *

Wheel

yes *

Knife

yes *

Knife

yes *

Wheel

yes *

Combination

yes *

Wheel/Tite-mark

yes
yes

Marking Gauge

Marking gauges allow you to consistently mark distances from the edge of a board. Most people prefer versions that use a knife or wheel/disc over the ones with a pin. Mortise gauges have 2 knives that are set to the width of your mortise chisel. Eventually it's nice to have a few.

$

Build one – [PDF]

Panel Gauge

Panel gauges are used to consistently mark the width of boards. Often these are made by the craftsman, and used ones come up pretty often.

$$

Buy a vintage panel gauge: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

Double

yes *

Engineer's square, 3-6″

Square 4″

When squaring up the edge of a board with your hand planes, it's handy to have a small square to check your progress. It's also useful for fitting into tight spots. Double squares have an adjustable bar and can work well as depth gauges too.

yes
yes *

Combination w/ removeable blade

yes *

Try square

yes *

Flat

yes *

size?

Square 6″

You need a combination square, either a 12 inch or 6 inch. While 6 inch combination squares are not as common, I find them to be a more useful size: big enough for accuracy, yet small enough to not get in the way. If you opt for a machinist square, make sure your 12 inch is a combo. [ 1 2 3 ]

yes *

Try square

Square 8″

8 inch squares are less common than the 6 inch or 12 inch. [ 1 2 3 4 5 6 ]

$$$

yes *

Wooden try square

yes *

Combination

yes *

Combination

yes *

Combination

yes *

Engineer's

yes *

Combination

Square 12″

You need a combination square, either a 12 inch or 6 inch. Most people recommend the 12 inch. Be sure to read up on all of a combination squares uses. A quality square is worth the money. If you need to save, be sure to test the cheaper squares in the store to pick out the most accurate. [ 1 ]

$

See 8″ Square for how to build one.

Framing Square

Framing squares are great for larger work.

$$$

yes
yes

6″ Ruler

If you have a 6 inch combination square, you can remove the ruler for measuring in tight spaces. Thin flexible stainless steel rulers are useful for the Charlesworth "Ruler Trick" in sharpening plane blades;

12″ Ruler

Avoid cork-backed or non-slip back tools since it's nice to be able to measure close to the work and modern non-slip backs can mar work. Incra rules have a lot of fans. Consider buying a center-ruler or a ruler with metric equivalents if your combination square is imperial, or vice-versa.

18″ Ruler

18″ rulers are nice when needing to accurately measure beyond your typical combination square. They tend to be more accurate than an equivalent tape measure or wooden ruler. Avoid cork-backed or non-slip back tools since it's nice to be able to measure close to the work and modern non-slip backs can mar work. Incra rules have a lot of fans. Consider buying a center-ruler or a ruler with metric equivalents if your combination square is imperial, or vice-versa.

yes *

wood folding or steel

yes

24″ Ruler

24″ rulers are nice when needing to accurately measure beyond your typical combination square. They tend to be more accurate than an equivalent tape measure or wooden ruler. Avoid cork-backed or non-slip back tools since it's nice to be able to measure close to the work and modern non-slip backs can mar work. Incra rules have a lot of fans. Consider buying a center-ruler or a ruler with metric equivalents if your combination square is imperial, or vice-versa. [ 1 ]

$$

Buy vintage 4-fold rule: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

12′

yes *

Folding wood

yes
yes *

Folding wood

yes *

6′ folding rule & tape measure

Tape Measure

Hand tool woodworkers often measure against existing pieces and with ratios instead of working strictly off measurements. However, tape measures come in handy for general sizing. For consistency's sake, consider using the same tape measure for the entire project. Story sticks are also a great option for consistent measurement.

$$$

yes
yes

Winding Sticks

Winding sticks help you determine twist in boards you are flattening. Winding sticks are great first projects for learning how to work with your hand tools.

yes *

36″ wood

yes *

36-48″

Straight Edge

Straight Edges help determine your parts are flat and true. While you can purchase accurate machinist's straight edges, there are other alternatives. Wooden straightedges work well, specially when made of stable quarter sawn wood. Also, you can just as easily use your jointer plane to check for straight. [ 1 2 ]

yes
yes *

6″

yes
yes
yes

Sliding Bevel

Sliding bevels (aka bevel gauges) let you replicate angles consistently. Choose one where the mechanism that tightens the blade doesn't stick out and prevent you from laying it flat.

yes *

2-4 pair either size

yes *

2-4 pair either size

yes
yes *

Photo

yes
yes *

6″

yes
yes
yes *

China Markers; Wax Lumber Crayons

yes *

Thick lead

Lumber Marker

Lumber markers help identify your pieces, whether it's labeling what type of wood your lumber is, or identifying the different furniture pieces. It's handy to have a few different kinds. Crayons are bright, but could affect your finish. Chalk is good for marking darker woods. Pencils for lighter woods. Whatever you use, learn about how to use traditional woodworker marks and the cabinetmaker's triangle to help remember which piece goes where. [ 1 2 ]

$$$

yes
yes *

Pencil Sharpener; Pen;

Mechanical Pencil

While marking knives are prefered over pencils in woodworking, a fine-pointed (0.5mm) mechanical pencil is handy for rough measurement. It's also useful for going over a knife lines to emphasize the marks. The pencil will highlight each side of the line and make it easier to see where to saw and chisel.

$$$

Chisels & Cutting
TBD
yes *

Aldi set is 8mm; 12mm; 18mm; 24mm

yes
yes
yes *

Detail

yes *

Recommends Irwin for value

yes
yes
yes
yes *

Firmer

yes
yes *

Bench and Detail

yes *

Bench and Firmer

yes *

Recommends Irwin for value

yes
yes
yes
yes
yes *

Bench and Firmer

yes *

Recommends Irwin for value

yes
yes
yes
yes
yes *

Bench and Detail

yes *

Recommends Irwin for value

yes
yes
yes *

Firmer

yes
yes *

Bench and Firmer

yes *

Recommends Irwin for value

yes
yes *

Recommends Irwin for value

yes
yes *

1 1/2 or 2″

yes *

1 1/2 or 2″

yes
yes
yes *

either 1/4 or 5/16

yes
yes *

either 1/4 or 5/16

yes

Mortise Chisel 7/16″

$

Buy vintage: HK, ST, SL, more

$$

yes
yes

Spokeshave

The standard flat spokeshave is the best to purchase first. It can do both chamfering and shallow curves. Kunz is reported to be the best of the inexpensive Stanley copies. The LV/Veritas spokeshave has adjusters, but the Lie Nielsen is as easy to adjust with only a little guidance. [ 1 2 3 4 ]

$

Buy vintage Stanley 51 or 52: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

10″: 9 or 10 grain

yes *

Nicholson #50

yes *

Nicholson No. 50 & Nicholson half-round bastard cut

Rasps: Cabinet

The Shinto rasp isn't truly a cabinet rasp like these others, but it works great as an intro to using rasps. Many report that the quality of Nicholson rasps has slipped recently, so it may not be the best option. It is included here since it was recommended by name in a list. [ 1 2 3 ]

yes *

4-6″: 15 grain

Rasps: Modelling

A medium rasp is for detailed work. Auriou tends to be mentioned most by woodworkers, although the Liogier has a similar history. The Gramercy is a newer option made in Pakistan and The Best Things have some made for them by Liogier. [ 1 2 ]

$

yes *

6″: 13 grain

Rasps: Rattail

A rattail rasp is for fine curves. Auriou tends to be mentioned most by woodworkers, although the Liogier has a similar history. The Gramercy is a newer option made in Pakistan and The Best Things have some made for them by Liogier. [ 1 2 ]

$

Rasps: 4 way

4 way rasps are a inexpensive way to get introduced to curved woodworking.

$$

$$$

yes *

Selection of curves and a veiner

yes *

unspecified

Gouge

$

$$

$$$

yes
yes *

multiple

yes
yes
yes *

set

yes *

assorted

yes
yes

Card Scraper

Working with card scrapers is like having a never-ending supply of sandpaper. They are especially useful when you need to smooth out difficult grain. Card scrapers really only differ in their thickness (which affects flexibility) and shape. A thickness of 0.80mm (.032″) is fine to start with and the Bahco brand is nice since it comes with a case. Sharpening card scrapers often requires a burnisher. You can likely use a tool you already have (like a nail set), or buy one just for the task. [ 1 2 3 4 ]

$$

$$$

Carpenter's Hatchet

$

$$

$$$

yes *

8″

Drawknife

$

$$

$$$

Striking & Fastening
TBD
yes
yes
yes *

small and large

yes
yes *

Round

yes
yes
yes
yes *

16 oz carpenter & turned mallet

Mallet

Mallet choice can be very personal, but almost any mallet will work to start with. The differences are mostly shape (a square Joiners Mallet vs. round Carvers Mallet) and weight (lighter for detail work vs. bigger for heavy work like mortises). Consider something between 16oz to 20oz (4-1/2″) to start with. If you choose to make a mallet, the laminated ones are the easiest to build and most forums have great examples and tutorials. More expensive mallets are often made with different materials, like brass, urethane, or resin-impregnated wood, to change the weight, size, or durability. [ 1 2 3 4 ]

yes
yes *

Warrington

yes *

Warrington

yes *

Plane adjusting

yes *

Tack hammer

Cross-peen Hammer

Cross-peen hammers can be used for small nails (brads), but in a hand-tool shop it is more often used for adjusting your plane blades. For use with a plane, some prefer Brass because it is softer than the iron your blade is made of, and some hammers come with a wooden side for use with wooden planes. Schwarz in the Anarchist's tool chest suggests a weight between 3oz to 6oz.

yes
yes *

13oz to 16oz

yes *

13 oz

yes
yes *

Small to medium

yes *

16 oz

Claw Hammer

Nails are as traditional as dovetail joints, and hammers are essential for your kit. Traditionalists like wooden handles, smooth heads, and curved (not straight) claws. Woodworkers tend to use smaller hammers than carpenters so 16oz or less is prefered.

$

Traditional Cut Nails
Deadblow
yes
Nailset
yes
yes
yes
yes
Nail Pincers
yes
yes
Pliers
yes *

Pliers & needle-nose

Screwdrivers
yes *

Set

yes *

8″ and 3″ flat

yes
yes
yes *

#0, #1, and #2 philips, and at least 5 flat

Screwtips
yes
Sawnut Drivers
yes *

if needed

Glue
yes *

Hide or PVA

Drilling
TBD
Brace
yes *

10″

yes *

10″

yes *

8″ ratcheting

yes
yes *

8″

yes
Auger Bits: Set of 13
yes
yes
yes
Auger Bits: 1/4″
yes *

Jennings

Auger Bits: 3/8″
yes
yes *

Jennings

Hand Drill
yes
yes
yes
Push Drill
yes
Drill Bits
yes *

1/8; 3/16; 1/4; 5/16; 3/8; 7/16 and 1/2

yes *

3/16″

yes *

1/16 to 3/8

Center Bit
yes *

3/4″ Forstner

Screwdriver Bits for Brace
yes
Gimlets
yes *

assorted

Countersinks
yes
yes
yes
yes
Awl: Birdcage
yes
yes *

Brad awl

yes *

Brad awl

Awl: Straight
yes
yes
yes
Dowel Plate
yes
Saws

TBD

[ 1 2 3 Where to Buy Saws There are lots of places to buy new, sharp backsaws, but buying a sharp handsaw or ripsaw is more of a challenge. However, there are three gentlemen I have bought handsaws and ripsaws from that I can recommend. Sometimes they also have backsaws in stock, though vintage backsaws are a lot more rare than handsaws. Daryl Weir (weir@gallatinriver.net): 781 S. Market St., Knoxville IL 61448. Daryl sharpens saws and sells saws on eBay on occasion. Steve Cook (SharpeningGuy01@aol.com): 1160 Taxville Road, York, PA 17408. Steve also sharpens saws if you have an old saw that you need toughed up (or completely refiled). Tom Law: 62 West Water St., Smithsburg MD, 21783, 301-824-5223. Tom no longer sharpens saws for hire, but he will sell you a saw that he has rehabbed and sharpened. If you know of other reliable sources for buying sharp handsaws, add a comment below. ] [ 1 2 ]

yes
yes *

7 Point Panel

yes *

26-28″ 5-6 tpi; or 20-24″ 7tpi Panel

yes
yes *

Unspecified between Rip or Crosscut

yes *

26″ 5tpi

yes *

26-28″ 6ppi

Rip Hand Saw

A rip saw is a good choice for your first hand saw because making rip cuts is more arduous than cross cuts.

$

recommendedBuy vintage Disston or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

7-8 Point Panel

yes *

26-28″ 8 tpi; or 20-24″ 10-12 tpi Panel

yes *

22″

yes
yes *

Unspecified between Rip or Crosscut

yes *

26″ 8tpi

yes *

26-28″ 8ppi

Crosscut Hand Saw

Crosscut hand saws cut accross a board and leaves a fine surace.

$

recommendedBuy vintage Disston or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes *

12 Point Panel

Fine Crosscut Hand Saw

A fine crosscut hand saws will leave a fine surface only needing a couple passes on a shooting board for finishing.

$

recommendedBuy vintage Disston or equivalent: HK, ST, SL, more
yes
yes *

14-16 tpi rip

yes *

8″ rip

yes
yes *

12″ 14tpi rip

yes *

9″; 15ppi

yes *

10″; 15-16 tpi rip

Dovetail Saw

Dovetail saws are the small detailed saws used for their namesake. If you only use hand tools, consider it for your second backsaw since it's shallow height and fine teeth limit it's flexibility. Ther are a lot of options these days, from the best value Veritas line, to custom makers here and listed below. There are even some unique ideas like Glen Drake's two-handed saw. [ 1 ]

See Hand Tool Makers for even more saw wrights and custom saw builders.

yes
yes
yes *

crosscut

yes *

10″ crosscut

yes
yes *

12″ 12tpi crosscut

Carcass Saw

Carcass (carcase) saws are typically medium sized back saws filed crosscut with 12-14 teeth. It is used for the cutting pieces to final size, along with typical fine cross grain cuts, like tenon shoulders and dados. This is a great first backsaw saw to purchase because its medium size allows it to be used in a lot of cases. Consider also the hybrid-filed sash saws which were a traditional option in combination with a finer dovetail saw. [ 1 2 ]

See Hand Tool Makers for even more saw wrights and custom saw builders.

yes
yes *

rip

yes
yes
yes *

Medium crosscut backsaw 12-14″ 13ppi

Tenon Saw

A tenon saw's larger height doesn't just allow it to cut deeper. The height makes it easier to tell if the saw is balanced left or right, so cuts are easier to keep vertical. Some makers have slightly bigger or smaller options. Note that while the Gramercy Sash saw is the biggest of the Gramercy saws, it is smaller and with it's hybrid filing can be used in place of a carcass saw.

See Hand Tool Makers for even more saw wrights and custom saw builders.

Flush Cut
yes
yes

Veneer Saw
yes *

and small-edge roller

Coping
yes
yes *

or bow

yes
yes *

6″ Fret/Jewelers Saw

yes
Frame Saw (Ruobo Style)
yes *

with Kerfing Plane

Sharpening
TBD
Sharpening Stones
yes
yes *

Any system

yes
yes
yes *

Diamond for travelling; Waterstone in shop

yes *

Any system

yes *

2-sided oilstone

Flattening/Lapping Stone
yes
yes
Strop
yes *

Leather on wood if you use oil stones

yes
yes
Honing Compound
yes
yes *

nagura or rouge

yes
yes
yes

Honing Guide/Jig

Honing guides make sharpening easy. While many suggest learning to sharpen without guides, using a guide makes sharpening consistent for the beginner. Certain guides are better for different blades.

  • The Eclipse-style side clamping guide is great for most blades, specially with some customization.
  • The Lee Valley/Veritas MKII guide is another good all purpose guide, specially for wide and skewed blades.
  • The Small Kell guide is good for deep mortise chisels.
  • The Large Kell guide is shallower blades.
  • The Lie-Nielsen guide is like the standard "Eclipse" guide on steroids, with better more true machining, and interchangeable blade holders to accomodate different blades, including tall, shallow, and skewed blades. It's been pending release soon, but early samples are proving it will be worth the wait.
Grinder: Handcrank
yes *

Either Handcrank or electric

Grinder: Electric
yes *

Either handcrank or electric

yes
Grinder: Sandpaper
yes
Stone Lubricant
yes *

Oilcan or plant mister

yes *

Oilcan or plant mister

Burnisher
yes
yes
yes
yes
Flat file
yes
yes
yes
Saw set
yes
yes
Saw file
yes
yes
Saw vise
yes
Putty knife; spatula
yes *

Spatula

yes *

1″ putty knife with flexible blade

Workbench
TBD
yes
yes
yes

Workbench

A good workbench is the centerpiece of a hand tool workshop. It functions both as a work surface and a giant surface for clamps. If you're just starting out, building a workbench should be your first project. Don't worry. It doesn't have to be fancy, just functional and cheap! Eventually you will figure out your preferences and build something better. If you have more money than time, purchasing a bench is a valid option. If you're somewhere in the middle, try finding a class or rent some shoptime in a communal space. It'll expedite your workbench build.

See below for workbench books and plans.

Vices

Workbenches work best with efficient ways to hold your work. One inexpensive option is to go "viceless" and use holdfasts along with appliances as Mike Siemsen demonstrates in this video. The norm however is to include some sort of vice. There are increasing options out there, from simple to complex. The best thing you can do is purchase Schwarz's Workbench book to guide you. [ 1 2 ]

See below for workbench books and plans.

See clamp section for holdfasts.

yes
yes
yes

Saw Bench

Sawbenches put your work at the right height to use a hand saw efficiently: the top should be knee height. This is another great first project. As far as making a saw bench without a saw bench, Siemsen arrived at a great solution, by using common 5 gallon buckets. Many commercial saw horses are too high to be used as a saw bench.

$$$

Appliances
TBD
Bench hook
yes
yes
Miter box
yes
End-grain shooting board
yes
yes *

Generic

Long-grain shooting board
yes
Miter shooting board
yes
Sanding Block
yes *

Cork-backed

yes
yes *

Cork-backed & felt

Sandpaper
yes *

120-400 grit

Wax
yes
Clamps
TBD
yes *

At least 4

yes *

At least 4

yes *

2 @ 24-36″

Cabinet/Parallel Clamps

There are 2 types of cabinet clamps that are most recommended. The Parallel clamp has deep jaws whose faces stay parallel. A lot of people are fans of Jet, although Irwin and Bessey are also popular. They are expensive, but you could save by buying a set or waiting for the sales that happen a few times a year. The aluminum bar clamp is prefered by Paul Sellers. The jaws aren't as deep but they have the benefit of being lightweight yet sturdy. To start, you can buy 4 that are about 40″ or 2 at 40″ and 2 at 24″. [ 1 ]

$

Harbor Freight 48" ($13) [lower quality]
Bar/F-clamps
yes *

2 @ 24″

yes *

2 @ 24″

Pistol Grip
yes *

2 @ 12-18″

yes *

2 @ 10-12″

yes *

2 @ 10-12″

Wooden Handscrew

Wooden Handscrews are a great first set of clamps to purchase because of their versatility. Because of their shape you can clamp these clamps onto a table or workbench to create a temporary front vise or to hold wood to mortise. Buy 2.

C-clamps
yes *

2 @ 4-6″

Pipe
yes

Woodjaw/Cam Clamps

Woodjaw or Cam Clamps are light to medium duty clamps that allow for careful pressure. One of the benefits of Cam Clamps is that they are inexpensive to make.

$

recommendedBuild one [ 1 2 3 ]

$$$

yes

Holdfast

Holdfasts are the amazing clamp that lets you clamp something to the middle of a table. Most holdfasts are made for 3/4" holes. The Gramercy is the standard. Custom holdfasts can be made for holes larger than 3/4". The LV/Veritas hold fast offers more precise pressure though the screw. Buy a pair. [ 1 2 3 4 ]

Sharpening

Coming Soon!

Workbench

recommendedThe Naked Woodworker

by Mike Siemsen

The easiest bench to build. Mike Siemsen goes through all the steps from buying the tools you need to constructing your first bench out of nothing. Video of this bench in use.

recommendedWorkbenches from Design Theory to Construction and Use

by Chris Schwarz

The best book to guide you into determining which bench is right for you.

The Workbench Design Book The Art & Philosophy of Building Better Benches

by Chris Schwarz

Acting as an addendum to Schwarz's original book, this offers additional plans to a variety of workbenches.

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Books

recommendedThe Essential Woodworker

by Robert Wearing

This book covers all the hand-tool skills you need to know with exceptional detail and clarity. A highly recommended book.

recommendedThe Anarchists Toolchest

by Christopher Schwarz

Chris Schwarz did the research to uncover the essential list of hand tools you need in your shop. An essential guide.

The New Traditional Woodworker

by Jim Tolpin

Tolpin's book works like a mini apprecnticeship where he goes over the tools, then helps you build skills by creating tools and jigs for your workshop.

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking Three Book Collection

by Tage Frid

Tage Frid's tome goes over almost every woodworking technique, covering both hand and powertools, refined through his years of teaching.

recommendedUnderstanding Wood Finishing How to Select and Apply the Right Finish

by Bob Flexner

Finishing can be confusing because each manufacturer creates different names for the same product. Bob Flexner's treatise clears up all the mess in straightforward language.

The Complete Guide to Sharpening

by Leonard Lee

One of two sharpening standards (the other is by Lie-Nielsen) that goes from theory to practice on sharpening almost every tool imagineable.

Fine Woodworking Magazine Online Subscription

by Editors

Online Fine Woodworking subscriptions let you search and download PDF articles from their 40 year archive. Great for finding plans and answering specific questions.

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Videos

recommendedMastering Hand Tools ($27)

by Chris Schwarz

This 3 hour video clearly covers the use of all the basic handtools: marking tools, saws, chisels, rasps, card scrapers, braces, drills, jack plane, routing plane, and smoothing plane.

Shaker Side Table ($40)

by Chris Schwarz

Chris Schwarz takes you through all the steps in making a shaker side table in real time (289 minutes worth). All hand tool construction techniques are covered.

Handplane Basics ($23)

by Chris Schwarz

Focuses on how to mill rough lumber only using handplanes. Includes instructions on how to sharpen and the proper order of using handplanes.

Working Wood by Paul Sellers ($139 or individually)

by Paul Sellers

Okay, I've never seen this video, but if it's anything like Paul Seller's videos, I'm sure it's great. With 7 DVDs it's I imagine is like an apprenticeship in a box.

Super Tune Handplane ($23)

by Chris Schwarz

Vintage planes are better made than many newer planes. But, they sometimes need a little help to get them working at a high degree. Schwarz takes you throiugh the steps.

Sharpen Your Handsaws ($25)

by Ron Herman

One day you will need to sharpen your saws. In this video Ron Herman explains the process in great clarity.

Making Through Dovetails and Making a Drawer ($45)

by C. H. Becksvoort

Becksvoort, the master of shaker furniture takes you step by step and reveals all his tricks on how to make through and half-blind dovetails.

Channels

Paul Sellers

Paul Sellers's years of woodworking and teaching come through in his videos. Beware though that his skills make things look easier than they are. Videos on his site.

Shannon Rogers

The Rennaissance Woodworker

Shannon Rogers explains hand tool woodworking in an east straughforward manner. He's been consistenly produceing videos so he's covered a lot throughout the years.

Tom Fidgen

The Unplugged Woodshop

Tom Fidgen's videos do more showing than explaining but you can still learn a lot from watching every detailed step.

Roy Underhill

Woodright's Shop

Roy Underhill has been making the Woodright's Shop since 1979! You can watch most of them on PBS. Lately, he's shared the stage with a lot of great woodworking guests.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks

Deneb Puchalski of Lie-Nielsen has made a lot of videos to help you get started. Lukily, a lot of the videos, like his sharpening ones, work on any tool. Videos on thier site.

Rob Rozaieski

Logan Cabinet Shop

Rob Rozaieski has been making fewer videos lately, but his long backlog has lots of great lessons.

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General Woodworking

Projects

Coming Soon!

Basic Skills

Flattening Boards

Sawing

Dovetails

Mortise & Tenon

Tools

Hand Tool Makers